E3D-v6 hot ends are supposed to have room to let bowden tubing go all the way down to the heat brake even when using a direct drive.

One modification idea I have is to open up the bottom of the direct drive extruder so bowden tubing can be pushed inside. This channel would go all the way up, but the plastic that guides the filament would still be there both to guide the filament and hold the bowden tubing in place.

Then a piece of bowden tubing could be cut to fit the entire E3D-v6 hot end and the extruder and fitted in when assembling.

In theory this would allow the extruder to push flexible filament directly into the tube and all the way down into the hot end giving flexible filaments minimal resistance all the way down to the nozzle.

I'm planning on using an E3D-v6 hot end when I build my Wilson TS in a couple of months. If no-one wants to experiment with this then, I'll probably try it.

I have a RepRapElectro RAMBo which comes with switches and connectors to use for endstops.

Instead of the limit switches having short terminal ends and being soldered to, these switches are slightly longer and a "disconnect" type connector/plug is used to attach the wires to the limit switch. This makes them a bit longer and bulkier than other endstops.

However none of the endstop slots on the Wilson TS have room for these switches. None are deep enough for the plugs. And some of them are shallow enough that the switches themselves don't fit properly.

Here are some photos of the switches next to the endstop slots.

I'll probably find some workaround to get my printer working. However it may be worthwhile to modify the printed part designs to be deep enough to accommodate these kinds of switches. The connectors do seem like a nicer idea than using solder everywhere. And they are being sold along with a board made for RepRap printers.

The Z-axis should theoretically be the easiest fix. It can simply be extended upwards a bit so there's room.

The Y-axis could be a bit trickier. A simple option would probably be to cut out a hole behind the endstop slot, that would allow the wires to simply exit from there. However it wouldn't look that nice and I'm not sure what affect if would have on the printability.

The X-axis will be the most problematic. With the threaded rod in the way there's basically no room for the endstop slot to go any deeper. And if you move it to the other side of the screw holes the switch doesn't hit the carriage.

I've noticed that sometimes the parts listed on the BOM don't correlate exactly to ones in the repository. Could @mjrice or someone else please either add the stl filenames to the BOM or redo the file names so that they match?

Line 579

define HOMING_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 200, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

this result in very slow head movement when homing. You had pointed out that the unit is actually in mm/min. I did change mine to 1200 from 200 to get a decent speed.

Greetings,

I was preparing to build a Wilson with a 300mm y-axis and wanted to use 10mm rods for added stiffness (might be paranoia), and also use the Y Table instead of four bearing holders. I didn't see a parametric model for this -- could you publish a variation for fitting LM10UU bearings?

Seems there is forgotten 1 "M5 t slot nut" and 1 "M5 x 10mm machine screw" for Z-axis end stop holder. So total t-nuts = 37 and screws = 37

when I looked at lulzbot mini with the cable link carrier it just look so cool I wonder if anyone has attempted to incorporate the link carrier into wilson ts? any suggestion?

Z-Motor photo is not same as 3D model

Could you release a modification to the TS model that allows for M8 rods instead of M5? I'm about to start building one of your printers, and I'd rather do M8 for my Z axis threaded vs the M5 you have spec'd.

Why do I get this message No SD Card, I have a good SD card in the slot so how do I fix this problem
the unit was working just fine and now I can't see the SD Card

I just ran it through the cloud NetFabb/Azure model fixer and good to go. Printed perfect after.

Thinking about building this out with a 300mm square bed, bowden extruder, maybe 400mm high? Would like to hear your thoughts on potential difficulties we might encounter on stretching this out. Using Marlin firmware. A Bowden recommendation would be appreciated. I have always appreciated your thoughtful innovations to the Prusa - my son and I built an i3 about 3 years ago. What head are you using? We are considering an E3D over our original JHead.

Nice work, btw - hope your kits sell well! I might consider buying one if I could select some mods ;)

Cheers!

I cannot find where is this piece needed in the assembly. Can anyone help? Is there a comunity or forma for this printer?

belt-guide-sleeve-624 is clearly too big for the bearing. I've had mine printed in abs with 0.24 layer, and the bearing is very loose there. My Y axis had a periodic clicking sound and error until I wrapped the bearing with tape in order for this to fit. I have not realized this is an openscad model, so I've never measured it to fix it myself, sorry.

I had a Chinese seller print my printed parts and ordered a bunch of LM8UU bearings with extras (so I can skip the duds / rough ones). Fairly normal for starting out as I understand.

For the x carriage I picked out 3 of the best bearings in the bunch, the ones with the least resistance and popped them into the carriage.

However when I put the bearings in the carriage movement of the rod that goes in the side with 2 bearings becomes very high resistance, janky, and noisy when moving the bar hand. This is not related to any other part of the x axis or a result of one of the bearings being rough. As the bearings move relatively smoothly when not in the carriage and simply inserting a bar into the 2 bearings the resistance can be felt as you move the one bar.

I'm using the pushfit x carriage. I don't have the latest modifications, so I'm using the earlier model.

For now I'm using a single bearing in both slots on the carriage but it may be worthwhile to resurrect a variation of the zip tie carriage model at least as a recommendation when sourcing 3rd party printed parts to build a printer from scratch. From what I recall holding bearings in place with a single zip tie (rather than two) helps the bearings self-align. Perhaps a hybrid with a push fit channel for the single bearing and 2 slots that use a single zip tie instead of two.

Another option that should probably be added to the ODS file would be which bearing holder variation is used.

This would affect how many zip ties are recommended since the original variant used zip ties while the new nozip bearing holders don't use any.

frame-rear-brackets.stl was replaced by TS version, but now "frame-beam-bracket.stl" does not fits because of size...

I've heard good things about the the MK8 drive gear.

Perhaps it's worthwhile to make an alternate Wilson direct drive body for the MK8.

The MK8 has a smaller diameter than the MK7 so making a compatible drive would probably involve moving the stepper motor mount a little bit closer to the path the filament takes so that that path stays straight when the smaller diameter MK8 is used.

What is the maximum z-feedrate others have been able to handle on the Wilson?
((3rd number in #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {...} in Marlin))

My threaded rods gave horrible screeches when my z-axis travelled down when I first put it together (self sourced parts) and I had to limit myself to 1 mm/s until the super lube I ordered arrived. With lubrication there's still a little metal-to-metal noise but some of it is gone.

My z stepper drivers are set to 1/4 microstepping and 1000 steps per unit. My z-feedrate max is currently set to 2 mm/s now. Setting it to 3-6 mm/s leads to my stepper motors locking.

I see a number of differences between the txt BOM in git and the .ods BOM and wiki BOM for the TS model.

Namely in the size of the horizontal and vertical 2020s and M8 x and y rods.

HI..

Not an issue but do you have a image of the Z axis end stop fitted??
I'm about 80% done printing a set of parts.

Thanks

When I had my parts printed I found the holes for the z axis smooth rods in both the z-motors and z-top-rodholders.

Using a drill to clear out room for the rods is fine. But there is so little space around the hole in the z-motors holder I worry that attempting to actually free up as much room as was available in the assembly video would break the barrier between the smooth rod hole and motor hole.

Greetings,

I noticed a few commits (e.g. y-tensioner modifications to the y ends) that update the stl models but not any CAD sources. I wanted to make a few modifications to some parts, and was wondering if you had more recent versions of the scad/sketchup sources that could be pushed.