gameboypi / spw Goto Github PK

Thank you for this incredible job. I managed to build it and make it work nearly in one shot. My only issue is that I'm completely new to raspberry pi and emulation and I thought your image contained the emulators and games...but it's empty. Can someone direct me on some source to help me out? Thank you.

I never messed around with eletronics so i don't know if this is something hard or simple, i really want to use my headphones with it if possible. How can I make this?

Well hello again,
today I have a new issue which I hope you can help me with.

The "up" button doesn´t work...
Now let me explain what I tried so far and why I open an issue for this:

1. GPIO Test with the multimeter as described in the buttons troubleshooting section - Check
2. Button functionality test with the multimeter - Check
3. 1 + 2 or: Multimeter the button and the GPIO simultaniosly, press the button (beeep) - Check
4. Retropie Config: Button reconfig won´t recognize the "up" button at all - Check

So it seems that everything is set up correctly but the hell of a button simply doesn´t work as it should.
Do you have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

Wondering if it would be possible to have the Parts List updated with the option for the 3.2 screen from Aliexpress or whatever it may come from? Thanks.

Hello, i want to know how long you can use the pi with default 850mAh battery. Also can we modify it to use another battery which has higher capacity?

I was wondering if it would be possible to install battery level/charge indicator LED's like in the original sp? I was planning on buying an ads1015 and using it to have the onscreen indicator, but I would like to be able to have LED ones as well if possible. In addition when buying the ads1015 should I get the one that Adafruit sells or will a cheaper one from AliExpress work? Any help would be appreciated.

https://core-electronics.com.au/tutorials/how-to-make-a-safe-shutdown-button-for-raspberry-pi.html

I used this guide

But first you will have to install gpiozero by running

pi@raspberrypi:~$ sudo apt install python-gpiozero

In the command line

Then I followed the guide here but changed the line;
“ stopButton = Button(26) # defines the button as an object and chooses GPIO 26”
To;
“ stopButton = Button(13) # defines the button as an object and chooses GPIO 13”

I also changed the time to (3) so you hold the button for 3 seconds to shutdown.

Can i still connect thing to the gpio pin after soldering like joystick with a ad converter or can i use a similar board with more gpio and use some for the joystick and the other for your board

Hi all I bought the materials to make a few of these so I have 2 being made right now. Both are giving me a white screen on power up. I Switched the screens to the other main boards to see if I sodered something wrong, flashed different sd cards ( I got the image from here and they work if I connect them to a different pi on a tv) and checked if I had any shorts or if something wasn't sodered correctly with a multimeter. I think it might be my connection from the screens ribbon cable to the mini board. Is there a method to connect the screen to the mini board? Just a little sodered, and patience? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you

After going crazy, and reviewing the key assignments, I have seen that the key that is marked "M" in the circuit, which corresponds to the brightness key of the SP, is not assigned and can not be used.
I have reviewed the configuration file in /home/pi/Adafruit-Retrogame/retrogame.c
And all GPIOs are assigned except for GPIO 13, which corresponds to the M key.
Am I confused or am I doing something wrong?

Just a quick question about the link port. What is it's usage? Or is it just cosmetic? I see the USB connection pads near it and was wondering if they're supposed to connect or something. Just curious. Thanks!

Can you explain please how is raspberry being powered? I know that raspberry needs 5V input power, but thereis no converter in scema

I found that rpi-fbcp is having some performance issues, so I replaced the one bundled in your image with the fbcp-ili9341 one found here: https://github.com/juj/fbcp-ili9341

The difference is night and day as it provides very smooth transition between frames and removes that choppy framerate in rpi-fbcp when playing games.

If anyone is interested read below.

You can follow the readme for build instructions. The cmake command that gave me the best results is the one below:

cmake -DSPI_BUS_CLOCK_DIVISOR=6 -DILI9341=ON -DGPIO_TFT_DATA_CONTROL=24 -DGPIO_TFT_RESET_PIN=25 -DSTATISTICS=0 ..

Once you compile, just replace this line in /etc/rc.local with the binary out file:

#/usr/local/bin/fbcp &
/home/pi/fbcp-ili9341/build/fbcp-ili9341 &

NOTE: I also have an overclock of 800mhz which helps things a bit

I can't get the sound to work. I've confirmed everything is soldered correctly, so I think there's some issues with my retropie sound settings.
Can anyone please confirm the Sound Settings from within retropie.

I think it'd be cool to have cartridges that have access to GPIO/USB/power. I am working on this and really dig the idea of having a "radio cartridge" that has a SDR + CC1101, for example. If this was a cartridge that could be easily assembled, I would recommend SPW as best device for running Pakémon.

Not sure what is involved in re-arranging things on the PCB to accommodate this, but this project + some IO for radio chips (and other peripherals) in a cartridge slot would be just perfect. I imagine expanding it, and building lots of cool cartridges for different situations.

Is this something others are into? Anyone have ideas about it?

I placed the order with JLCPCB and they informed me that they cannot import the Gerberx2 format. Is there a RS-274X version of the file or another recommended PCB printer which supports the extension?

Thank you for the help!

Hi , any chance to make some instructions how to install ADS ? Many thx

Just a quick question. In the parts list and guide, it says a 3.9 Ohm screen resistor is used. But on the Gerber files silkscreen, it says 10R. Which is the desired value for the screen resistor, 3.9 or 10?

Hello, what is the purpose of gameboy link port? Does it really do anything? Can we use it or it is just a dummy port that is taking place.

Good morning everyone,
I think I bought a wrong tp4056, because it doesn't have the out+ and the out- on the board. It has anyway the Bat+, the Bat-, the In+, the In- and it also has the microUSB port. Can I use it anyway? What would this entail? Thank to everyone who will answer my question! (Sorry for my bad English)

I cannot find any SP switches anywhere. has any one found a successful alternative from aliex? thanks

Hi,
I'm going to order a new pcb, what dimension should I input, or does it even matter what I input on the JCLPCB website? I mesured the pcb, but in the geber file there is the screen adapter...

Any hint? Thank you

F.

I've ordered a wrong power switch but now I can't find any power switch on ebay and the ones i've found on aliexpress haven't clear descriptions and I don't want to buy an another wrong switch. Can someone link me the right switch?

Hello,
Thanks for a nice project, IMHO the best one that involves case reusing.
Unfortunately pi zero a bit old, how about using Compute Modules?

Here some project I found:
-Fully open source with custom 3d printed case, with dpi display
https://hackaday.io/project/94791-retro-cm3-a-powerful-retropie-handled-game-consol
https://github.com/Dean-Chu/Retro-CM3
-GameBoy classic motherboard:
https://hackaday.com/2018/04/06/circuit-sword-delivers-retro-justice/

Hi,
I build a second unit, just beautiful.
I would like to install the retropie-manager, but I do not have a keyboard to enter my github credentials, I wonder if I could do it over SSH, but I'm a real noob. (wifi was imported via the boot txt file)

Any idea?

Thanks

Hello,

Same problem. White screen when i turn on the raspberry pi 0. Don't know why. Please help me. I attach some pictures for details.

Hello, i want to use Raspberry Pi’s HDMI and microUSB ports. But they are too far from the side of the Gameboy. Should i just drill a hole or extend them with wires? Thanks.

Any chance of updating the board gerber files so the usb solder pads extend to pins on the link connector port? While I like the idea of optionally putting a microUSB port (like mentioned in #7), rather than a dummy GBA link port, it would be neat to add the 4 USB connections onto the link port itself as well. That way, we could make custom GBA accessories or whatnot, rather that it being unconnected.

First of all thank you for this awesome project and the excellent documentation.
I have a weird issue: After soldering the parts to the PCB I tested the build with a power adapter in the PI: works as expected, Retropie boots. Afterwards I plugged the power adapter in the TP4056, turned the switch on but the RPI wont boot. So I checked the voltage, the PI gets 3.7 to 3.8 V which should be enough I think. As a result I built a second setup (only a PI, TP4056 and the switch) with the same result.
Do you have any idea what might be the reason?
Thanks in advance.

Hellooo!
So I had an issue for a while with the backlight flickering on my SPW - I wired everything according to the instructions, however on two separate (new) 3.2" LCD displays the backlight would flicker quite a lot, especially during startup and it would come and go during usage. These displays were the ones linked in the wiki. Interestingly it never happened on a third lcd (w/ touch panel). Also of note is that the displays would not flicker "out of the box", only after 5-10 minutes of initial usage would they begin to flicker (enough time to close the casing and sit on the couch..).

So after many agonizing hours of troubleshooting, I was able to stop the flickering by simply bypassing the 3.9R resistor for the backlight power.. I had tried various other resistor values - it took a while to brave skipping the resistor altogether! I know it's not ideal to skip this resistor, but could anyone shed light on why this is happening? And I'm thinking it's reasonably safe to continue without a resistor, it has been fine so far, but maybe I'm wrong? I wonder if there's a resistor built into the display..

I have been theorizing that it could be:

• Sub-standard resistors (eBay purchase)
• Sub-standard LCD displays
• Defective Raspberry Pi
• Electromagnetic interference somewhere
• A resistor is not needed

I'd appreciate any input!

N.B. Avoid connecting GND and battery GND in any manner of troubleshooting, it will fry your LCD.

How and where do you connect the ADS1015 to monitor the battery levels?
It is an important point to avoid degradation of the SD card when the RPi goes off due to running out of battery

Hi I’m trying to get kodi to run on my build and wondering if anyone has had any joy with it. It just loads onto a black screen. Needs to restart to exit it. Any help would be much appreciated

I recent tried a test print of the uploaded SPW Gerber files via Oshpark, however the margin of space on the bottom top looks to be too tight and the cutting of the board consistently cut through the audio contacts.

See https://imgur.com/RxfuJlJ

Attempting to get in touch with Oshpark support, but they've been difficult to get ahold of so far. Just wanted to know if you had any recommendations on PCB processing services to order from, which have successfully printed the SPW?

Failing that, would it be possible to shift those circuits up a bit to avoid the issue entirely? I realize the is just a hobby project, but figured worth asking and sharing my experience.

Thanks!

assuming I can match the 8 used pins with the 54 available in this https://bit.ly/37ayUwO screen, would it still work

i want to add a joystick but i also want a screen that fit the case of the gameboy so my question is if spi are used by the joystick is there a way to connect the screen or a alternative to this screen

¿Por que no usar este amplificador?Es mucho mas económico que el de Adafruit, lo usan en muchos proyectos de gameboy de rpi para sacar el sonido.

Hey, this is definitely a stupid question but I can't seem to find the answer anywhere.

Where is it recommended to get the board printed?

Hi, is there any chance you can upload the Eagle files? I would like to edit the pcb for DPI LCD output if possible thank you.

Hi , loved your build and work , really impressive indeed! Need to ask if you put some Kapton tape below the raspberry pi zero before bound it/soldering to the PCB. Thx

Hi,
I had a small question? How is the pi connected to ground, I can't seem to find a point to which
the pi is connected.

Thanks in advance.
Toby

Hi! I would like to know if in the premade image the combos that up and down the volume only work within retroarch or work in the whole system. If that combos works only within retroarch it could be any possibility of make it in the entire system?

Regards

Do you know of a printing service that will print the PCB files as is? The companies I tried all require RS-274x file types. I have never printed PCBs before so I'm not even sure what that is or if it is possible to convert the original files to that type.

The image that is available for download, does it work also for an rpi zero 1.3?
I am trying it with an rpi 1.3 and I only get a white screen. I have already done all the tests and all the solders are correct.

First of all, thank you very much for the build instruction provided.

I am finishing building my GBA Sp, however, I am having some issues with screen brightness. As can be seen in the pictures, the brightness is pretty poor. It is hard to see anything on the screen in normal daylight. I can not figure out what is causing this issue. I have the small screen as in the parts list. Battery or power supply does not give a difference. Maybe something to do with the screen resistor? For that I choose a 3.9ohm one. Hope you can help me!

Hello again,

today I have another issue:
I soldererd everything together now but the screen stays white when powering up.
It is a 2.8 ili9341 screen (as described in the wiki part list)
Things I tried to solve the problem:

1. I followed the screen troubleshooting tutorial --> everything ok
2. I double checked my soldering and resoldered with a lot of flux --> Multimeter says everything ok
3. I even multimetered from the GPIO´s directly to the screen --> everything ok
4. I forced the screen to boot in 320x240 resolution in the config.txt (which is not necessary at all because the image is compatible with the ili screens)
5. I reburned the image to the SD card
6. I put the SD card into the slot of another GB project --> works!

So do you have any more ideas?
Maybe the screen is broken?

Thanks in advance...

Hi All, 2 questions:

For the ADS1015 optional battery monitor, how does that get implemented?

The link port is tad expensive online, does it have a functional purpose besides filling space?

Thanks!

Hello everyone,
So the other day I started to assemble everything together, and when I got the to the step in which to test the screen it did not turn on. I re soldered everything and still no luck. I then followed the the troubleshooting guide, in which I had some continuity error between the 3.3V pad on the mini pcb board and the screen connector. After I fixed this and it once again had continuity but the screen still did not turn. The while testing the continuity I noticed that if I touched the terminals of the multi-meter to the 3.3V and miso pads it would actually turn on but only then and the screen would be blank. The pi seems to to work fine, and so does the screen. At this point I am at a loss and if y'all have any suggestions as to were to start next I would appreciate it.
Thanks

Good morning y'all,
I've come across a very strange problem, 'cause my screen doesn't work but I've double checked all the contacts and the continuity beeps. I state that I haven't finished all the soldering, I've only tinned the buttons and the screen and obviously the Raspberry and I'm powering it with the microUSB port on the Raspberry. The green led on the raspberry flashes a few time and then stays still and the screen turns white, but then nothing appens.