vorondesign / voron-tap Goto Github PK

I'm on my 2nd printing of the "Tap Center" and have ran into the same issue twice.

I use a hall effect endstop and thus use the magnet on the side of the Tap Center.

Both times the following issues have came up.

1.) There is no good place to "push against" to press fit the magnet. Especially if the screws that secure the front magnets are in place (as is described in the manual in order of assembly). Since the magnet is offset a bit from the main body plane the securing screws engage first if using a vise to press fit.

Which leads to...

2.) Both times once I finally find an angle to press the magnet in, it cracks the print horizontally along the midpoint of the hexagon where the magnet goes. It might be because of issue 1 and the fiddly angle at which I'm trying to press. I've press fit easily 100 6mmx3mm magnets in the past week (working on a magnetic panel latch design) and none of those cracked so I don't think it's my technique or force.

To sum it up, I think the magnet location needs to be tweaked, but I don't have any recommendations on how.
Except maybe have it as a seperate holder like the front magnets.

A M3x5x4 threaded insert causes bulging in the magnet holder, so that the magnet won't sit flush.

The source for the PDF assembly instructions is not in git, this seems to limit the ability for others to make changes and submit pull requests.

Please make ears little bit stronger, i breke it third time :(

Easy to edit, at least in F360

On Page 29, the manual shows putting (4) M3x6 BHCS into the holes that mount to the X-Rail carriage. Right after that, it notes about installing the X end stop magnet. In my mind, I'd install the magnet when the assembly is off the machine, so I was dropping screws as I was glue and pressing the proximity magnet in.

Maybe it should have a picture of the X-Rail carriage in the image so it's explicitly shown that it is being physically connected to the machine. Maybe it's just me.

The on Page 27 of the Manual mentioned Fun Fact Voids™ didn't appear with my settings of SuperSlicer and since I couldn't figure out what settings was responsible for them not to make an appearance I went ahead and enlarged them to a 0.2mm gap which then sliced them as intended.

Maybe consider increasing them in the STLs like I did or give a mention in the Manual what Slicer setting may be responsible for them to appear ( or not )?

The head assembly instructions appear to be for a V6 head, many kits ship with StealthBurner and Revo nozzle. It would be good to add into the documentation instructions on how to identify parts you have and include instructions for alternative heads. I would do this myself and add a pull request but the source for PDF is not in git.

I was looking at the CAD for the Tap an noticed interference between the MGN12 carriage and the tap_center component. I printed the STL in the repo, mounted the carriage with the belts installed and noticed that the parts mount at a slight angle to each other.

The issue is that the chamfer for the bottom of the carriage on the tap_center part is too big and will not let the carriage lay flat, even with belts installed.

By cutting out the large chamfer and adding a 0.4mm chamfer to the area the carriage now lays flat.

Modified STL and STEP files can be provided if requested.

I would like to see the team continuing to support MGN9H rails (at least a single rail) instead of only MGN12H. There is still a fairly large group of Voron owners using MGN9H. Similarly to support a variety of toolheads (like still E3D V6 and more), MGN9H should not be forgotten. I don't see a technical reason to make such a hard cut but only because of not wanting to spend the effort.

On page 25 of the manual, the upper is attached to the front with two M3x20 diagonal screws. In addition, the two M3x16 mating screws also hold the parts.

Later, the extruder is attached to the upper, while the hotend is attached to the front. This means that any imperfections in the angle of the upper and front to each other make the extruder and hotend out-of-plane to each other.

This warp does not become apparent until the fan assembly is fit, when force must be applied to re-align the extruder and hotend so that the fan should mates correctly and can be bolted.

The problem, I believe, is that the angle between the parts is affected by the diagonal and horizontal screws. Because the diagonal screws are at a 45° angle wrt to the horizontal screws, they pull the parts out of alignment.

After discovering this issue, I rechecked and filed the printed parts to ensure that they mated correctly. While this improved the collinearity of the extruder and hotend, it did not solve it completely. Also, it is nearly impossible to judge the alignment with just the parts.

The problem is visible in Kapman's Basement Workshop's TAP video at 7:50. When he tightens the lower screws, a gap appears at the top of the fan shroud.

The result of the warp is that aligning the bolts for the fan shroud is made more difficult, as well as causing internal stresses in the system when it is forced to fit for final assembly.

Suggestions:
• Redesign the parts to correct the issue.
• Until then, add a note in the manual to reduce confusion when users notice the misalignment. How much of a gap between the extruder and the fan shroud is acceptable? How much force should be applied to make the extruder and fan connect?

Hi,

I use an X-endstop mounted to the toolhead. In my case it's a KW11, but I saw the same issue with an Omron D2F-L on Discord.

The documentation (page 30) shows the endstop with the latch opening to the bottom. Due to the shape of the XY-joiner, the endstop will not trigger in this orientation. With the endstop mounted in reverse position (latch opening to the top), it will hit the XY-joiner reliably.

I think the documentation should show the endstop with the latch opening to the top so people use the working position.

In the Operation at 5V section of the OptoTap readme

The V2.4 OptoTap PCB has been tested to work fine from 5V to 24V inputs with no modifications. However, this does induce a bit of additional voltage drop from the switching regulator IC going into LDO mode. If you would like to run the V2.4 OptoTap at 5V, my first suggestion would be to just run it at 5V with no modifications. It will most likely work just fine.

However, it does have the capacity to bypass the whole buck converter circuit. Note that this also bypasses the polyfuse, so there will be no overcurrent protection.

To make this modification, you need to cut the trace between the center pad and 24V pad on the rear of the PCB, then use some solder to bridge the center pad to the 5V pad. To reverse the change, just desolder that bridge and re-connect the center pad to the 24V pad with more solder.

This suggests that initially, there should be a bridge from 24-centre. However, most v2.4.1 PCBs (I've seen 3 in person now from 3 different sources) have no "trace" (by which I think is meant bridge?), just three segregated pads.

So the statement is confusing for people running 24V, as it creates an ambiguity around whether the 24v-centre pads should be bridged or not.

Here's what I think is true:

• If running 24v, you shouldn't bridge the 24v-centre pad
• If running 24v, and you do bridge the 24v-centre pads, it will still work but you won't benefit from overcurrent protection
• If running 5v, you shouldn't bridge the 5v-centre pad initially
• If running 5v and you experience too great a voltage loss (*) for the trigger to work correctly then you should bridge the 5v-centre pad. This will remove the overcurrent protection but reduce the voltage loss in the circuitry.

If my assumptions are correct can someone please confirm, and I'll happily make a PR to tweak this README for clarification.

*I assume you can measure this between the ground and the signal output pins, but what's a sensible range that this output voltage should be, when operating correctly?

In the BOM on pg15: "These are standard Voron inserts, 4.7 mm diameter and 4mm tall"

4.7mm refers to the hole size in CAD. Voron standard threaded inserts are 5mm diameter.

Hey thx for the great upgrade to version R8. Love the new Beld Clamp. Had some problems with loosen Belt and then i saw your update, well done.

But one point i recommend too change or add.

For the Optical PCB STL the lower left gap is missing. I could provide the corrected file for the R8 Version.

Some optical sensors EE-SX398 do not correctly trigger due to the SIG pin voltage only flipping between 1.4V and 0V.
This appears to be dependent on Sensor and the floating voltage that the pin will sit at being not predictable and may affect other recommended Sensors.

The improvement would be a 1K or 10K Resistor connecting 5V to SIG so that the SIG pin is held high @5v until the sensor pulls it to GND indicating a change in state.

I've verified this on my Tap board connected to SB2040 HV compatible pin (GPIO25) and it is now a stable 5V or 0V signal.

EDIT 2: 20230503: R8 should solve this. If you're experiencing this, please print and install the R8 revision of TAP, which includes actual clamps for the belts, which should completely eliminate this.

R8 is very similar to how I was trying to solve this myself, and am quite happy to see I was going down a similar path to solve it. I'm going to abandon mine, and suggest you just download the R8 parts.

EDIT: For anyone finding this, I have some revisions on the center, and some directions on assembly here that should help resolve this for most people: https://github.com/Darkstar77/Voron/tree/main/TAP

My 2.4r2 is a LDO kit. The LDO kit MGN12H carriage has a ~0.55mm drop from the main carriage body to the end caps. It seems like a pretty small amount, however I've now had my belt slip and strip out the belt retainers on the TAP centre piece 3 times in one day. I was taking it apart to resolve a loose MGN9 rail issue, and had printed the R6 revision of the centre.

I decided to remove the centre assembly to replace it with the newer revision. I noticed that the tooth immediately beside the hole for the belt to pass through had stripped off, with damage to it's neighbor. This was the upper belt, and only one side of the centre was effected. This centre had about 200 hours of printing on it.

I reassembled it with a brand new centre, and on tensioning the belts, the upper belt again slipped. When I took it apart, the teeth were stripped in the exact same way. There appears to be no damage to the belt.

I printed a third centre, added some 1mm foam to the end caps of the LDO MGN12H carriage, and carefully re-assembled it. Tensioned the belts, and it looked good. Re-assembled the print head, and started a print. It got about 10 minutes into the print, and the belt slipped again. Same deal, the tooth immediately beside the pass through hole was stripped off for the upper belt on one side.

I saw at least one user with the same problem on Discord, with the same non-flush end cap on their carriage too. This was not an LDO carriage. When I inspected the carriages on my switchwire, I noted that the end caps were not flush on those carriages either. Those were generic china rails. I'd like to blame user error here, just say I was too rough, over tensioned the belts, etc.. This third centre I printed today, when I assembled it, I was very gentle with the assembly, and the tensioning. If anything, the belts were slightly under tensioned.

0.55mm doesn't sound like a lot, but it is apparently enough to allow some wiggle room for the belt to move, and as a result it is really easy to strip the belt retention. Once the tooth closest the pass through hole is gone, it is no longer able to hold the belt, and it slips. That essentially means that a single tooth is properly engaging the belt in this scenario, and nothing else is really retaining the belts. This makes the whole thing very easy to strip out and fail. The LDO rails are widespread, and by no means the minority.

Trying to debug some ressonance issues on my printer I was checking the overal boolts torques and accidentaly break this piece. But looking at it, I felt that this part is verry week at this point, with only 3 walls from here the bolts make contact to the end of the part. I was able to increase this number to 5 without reducing the clearences to the other parts. And in my modification I was abble to cincundate the entire rail carrige, also increasing the stiffness of the part a little bit. The new part is printed and it is working on my printer.

After about 50 hours of printing I noticed the entire print head was coming loose. After disassembly I found the three M3 SHCS attaching the linear rail to the center mounting structure were all coming loose. I've gone back and added blue Locktite to each of these screws to fix the problem. I would recommend adding this to the assembly manual in future revisions.

Hey there! Small issue, but I think it should also be mentioned that you'll need to remove the [stepper_z] position_endstop that may also be present at the bottom of printer.cfg from previous configuration.

Thanks! ❤️

On pg 28 for the current manual, it says "We could say that there is only one way they fit, but we don’t want to underestimate you."

That's nice... but how are they supposed to fit? The manual should probably say "so that you can see the non-heatset side through the side" because you really need to zoom in on the image to see the heat-set on the image. Right now it's just a vague insult to the builder's intelligence.

The Magnet holder screw position on the left side(front view), when you tighten it it will pull back the magnet holder and away from the set position(inward), making it a pain to set properly, maybe instead of a side screw, screw the part from the bottom? so it doesnt change the position/rotate the holder when tighten? the other side gets forced into the screw (outward) so it doesnt matter much.

Hello,

I've recently started using Voron-Tap and I have a couple of questions that I hope the community can help answer.

1. Does residual filament on the nozzle affect the z-offset? If so, how can this issue be addressed?
2. I tend to apply adhesive on the print bed during printing. Will this have any impact on the printing process?

I would appreciate any insight or advice on these matters.

Thank you!

On page 5, The github link for the STLs is incorrect, it points to https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/STLs instead of https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/STLs

Hi, just wanted to point out that 4 micrometer = 0.004mm

the description says 0.0004mm.
This issue can be closed.

btw. the sensor works very good! I already got my clicky replaced with the tap.
Very good job as always!

thank you!

edit: nvm. Just saw the O.4 um 👎

In the FAQ, it is mentioned that the hartk PCB must be changed to be compatible, this is not true for the v2.x OptoTap PCB, which does support 24v. It should be mentioned before users with a v.2x OptoTap PCB is scratching their hartk toolhead pcb unnessecarily and producing possible errors/issues in their build

The circle indentations that were added to Tap_Magnet_Left_r1 and Tap_Magnet_Right_r1, are different depths.

Not sure which is correct but on Tap_Magnet_Left_r1 it is 0.2mm deep and on Tap_Magnet_Right_r1 it is 0.1mm deep, also these STL's are not included in the latest CAD.

Yes, a very very minor thing. I think in the manual, on page 25, it's stated that the toolhead holder screw needs a 2.5mm clearance. But considering that the mount on SB parts that slots into those screws is ~3.3mm wide the correct value should be 3.5mm.

With 3.5mm clearance the ends of the screws also seem to match how the part was designed and the ends of M3x16 screws don't dig into the plastic on Tap_Upper_* part.

Hi,
Just wanted to point out a small error in the assembly manual. An unfinished sentence(or did I miss the punchline?).

I have a chamfer in the angled holes for bolting "tap upper" to "tap front". is that supposed to be there? the slicer picture is upside down. sorry for that.

Upon reviewing the CAD, it appears that the holes for the CW2 Mounting on Tap Upper Wired part are off centre, causing them to be out of alignment with the CW2 holes when it is inserted into the slot.

Currently the TAP_Upper_PCB_r2 part has a 1mm deep relief for the pins and solder joints of the JST connector on the OptoTap v2.1 PCB so the PCB can sit flush when screwed down, however the pins of the spec connector(S3B-PH-K) in actuality stick out 1.8mm from the bottom of the PCB. Extending the depth of the relief to 2mm should resolve this issue.

Of course it is not difficult to just trim the pins down a little before or after soldering, but extending the relief to 2mm is a small change that would make assembly easier, and eliminate the opportunity for issues arising from the PCB being installed incorrectly due to the pins blocking it from sitting flush.

The measurement of the pins protruding 1.8mm from the PCB bottom is taking the specified PCB-side pin length of the JST connector, 3.4mm(Page 2 of the JST PH connector datasheet - see below for screenshot and link), then subtracting the nominal PCB thickness of 1.6mm, = 1.8mm protrusion. So a 2mm relief should be enough to account for any potential variance in pin length/PCB thickness.

https://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/ePH.pdf

I have also personally experienced this issue with the solder relief being insufficient with the current 1mm depth, and I have physically measured the pin length protruding to indeed be about 1.8mm as well.

Also I'd like to take this opportunity to say thanks to everyone who has contributed to Tap, its awesome!

When using probe as a virtual endstop, the position_endstop setting for stepper_z needs to be removed / commented out. this should be called out in the instructions.

I assembled my OBP991T11Z to basically look identical to the picture on the manual page 13, even to the same scale, but as a result there isn't enough space to route the wires with the shrink tube, soldering joints etc. in the wiring channel of Tap_Upper_Wired_r1.stl.

I'm thinking now the best place for all the solder work is so that it lives along side all the rest of the concealed wiring for the tool head. In fact for the second try, I might not even do that solder work until the sensor body is screwed into Tap_Upper_Wired and the wires are installed in the wiring channel. I'm not sure if that's what others are doing or if specific length guidelines can make sense to document in the manual given the variety of toolheads, canbus mods etc. But at least it would be helpful to note on that manual page that the picture is not meant to show the extra length required between the sensor body and the resistor/solder work/shrink tube to route through the wiring channel.

Protruding Button screws seem to push out the extruder holder. The bottom buttons do nothing in this case so they had to come out as leaving them in means the M3x50 screws are not long enough to reach the tap bracket.

Mod from RepRapster3D makes the CW1 Motor Plate fit TAP but SB Hotend Holder doesn't look right.

Please change https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/OptoTap
to https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap

This may be semi-obvious, but we should add a warning to the README and manual about ensuring the printed parts aren't transparent or semi-transparent if you plan on using the optical based sensor, because if the printed part isn't able to fully block the sensor's light then TAP will be less accurate and in some cases unsuable.

I printed the TAP center part using a bright orange ABS filament and noticed that TAP would seldom trigger properly, trigger late, or not trigger at all. Once I swapped that part to a darker opaque based print all my issues were resolved.

I checked the project yesterday.

Here are some recommendations; those will improve the EM susceptibility and characteristics of the board:

• Reduce the ground planes margin to near the manufacturer capabilities (0.127mm for JLCPCB -> 0.15-0.2mm).
• Add vias to stitch the ground planes together
• Make the board such that all traces are routed inside a ground plane.
• EMC profile of a 2-layer board tends to improve when the board gets thinner. Avoid using the standard 1.6mm board.

Those are some ameliorations on the design:

• The copper layer should be retracted from under the screws. Humidity will creep under a damaged soldermask. That kind of details make boards work 20 years longer for free. ;)
• The AP63205 datasheet states that the 220nF C2 could be 100nF 0603. Not sure what's going on here, I may miss something, but if it works at 100nF, go for it.
• The switching node of the AP63205 is very compact (L1 very close the the SW pin), which is perfect. I would use a small copper pour to connect this node it a bit better.

Some EDA tricks:

• Name your schematics nets. It's making the routing and the editing way easier.
• You don't need to create a plane for TOP and BOT copper in kicad, you can have a single plane pouring on multiple layers.
• Lock the positions of all mechanical components. I shouldn't be able to move the screws holes for example ;)

I've joined a zip file with some quick modifications to the design you can look at. I have some spare time if you need any help for design and testing. ;)
Tap_Photosensor_PCB_v2_modified.zip

During the operation of coolers, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the part in the form of a strong wobble

Multiple reports of U2 releasing magic smoke in discord see https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1058146062457643029

Suspected instability on Vin during power up causing oscillation leading to failure.

I'm on page 25 of the manual, attaching Tap_Upper_PCB_r8.stl and Tap_Front_r8.stl. I think the pockets for the M3x20 SHCS heads are slightly undersized. The screws got super hard to screw in towards the end, and started deforming the Front plastic. I stopped applying torque for fear of damaging the plastic parts.

In the pic above, the straight edge is resting on the head of the SHCS (near 105 mm on the ruler), after i screwed it in as far as i dared.

I've printed all the parts for my 2.4r2 and Tap on an enclosed Prusa Mk4, and this is the first issue with fit that i've run in to. So i think the printed parts match the STLs, and I'm suspicious of this particular STL.

hi @tanaes I submitted the bom and placement files for an order at jlcpcb (my first) and uploaded the files provided in https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap/Tap_Photosensor_PCB_v2/jlcpcb/production_files

They came back with the following issue though, so it seems the PCB placement is off or I did something wrong..

Their feedback:

Since we are not so sure about the polarities of the components D1 are correct or not. Could you please kindly check if the polarities and placements of the components are correct in the below picture? Is it okay to proceed with production?

Does this voron0.2 work?

Not all listed opb sensors have color coded wires, for example opb961 has only pins.
Page 13 right hand side picture is really confusing - at first it looks just like the opb sensor view from the button, and if connecting based solely on the looks (very natural given how the rest of the manual is very visual) one can burn mcu.
If just assume that the view is from the bottom it's pretty harmless and just won't work, however if you compare it to the schematic and see that cathode and anode pins are switched in the picture one can assume that it's the view from the top, this will result in short circuiting of the 5v rail on the mcu.
The truth is that page13 picture is neither the top nor the bottom view, but rather a diagram with pins rearranged to make it look neater.
Either include a warning that the picture below is a diagram, or adjust it to make it look as the most useful view- from the bottom.

I ordered OptoTap with the provided files (under OptoTap/Tap_Photosensor_PCB_v2/jlcpcb). The D1 LED are all placed upside down.

I contacted jlcpcb and they replied:
"Thanks for reaching out and sorry if any trouble caused.
Please kindly check the production file of this order in the attachment. For each order, we will make the production file and show it in Order history in a few hours after customers place the order. Customers can check it and if any problems, you can contact us in time.
For this order, the placement on the board is the same as the production file. We also notice that in the silkscreen layer, there is an arrow pointing to the board edge, and our engineering team make the placement according to the silkscreen. If the placement is incorrect, would you consider modify the arrow orienation on the silkscreen layer for your next orders? Silkscreen is very important for engineers and workers, so we sincerely suggest customers to make it better.
For these boards, if the placement is indeed not as you wish, could you try some resoldering on your side? Sincerely hope it will not cause you too much trouble."

I think they mean the white arrow on the silk screen is pointing downwards (to the board edge) and so should the arrow on D1 LED. This interpretation is just the opposite to the Voron team "...a little arrow that matches up with a corresponding arrow on the part".

Which one is the correct one or widely-accepted way of matching the component to the silk screen?

RTV doesn't adhere well to the ABS and doesn't adhere at all to the magnets. The reference should be removed from the manual.

The manual is still using r1 stl filenames, see this image

• All of them have the wrong suffix (r1 vs r8)
• Tap_Magent_(Left|Right)_r1.stl are now called Tap_Center_(left|right)_r8.stl
• [a]Tap_Center_r1.stl is now [a]_Tap_Center_r8.stl (extra _ before Tap)

First things first; I'm so impressed with this project! Thanks a lot. 👍🏻

Now the minor issue with the manual...

On page 37 of the manual it says:

The software setup and other initial setup steps with your new printer can also be found on our documentation page. We recommend starting with the Tap-Klipper Instructions on our Github.

This contains a wrong link.

Have double checked that I have the latest file. Also noticed this #14 which also does not seem to be fixed in the latest file. Maybe it's not committed or pushed to Github yet?

Manual specifies M3 6mm. 8mm and 12mm With part which have old version of [a]_Tap_Center_r8.stl.
8mm and 12mm bolts are too short for current version.

In step file bolt lengths are 6mm, 12mm and 16mm.