vorondesign / voron-hardware Goto Github PK
View Code? Open in Web Editor NEWCool Hardware designed by the Voron Design group
License: GNU General Public License v3.0
Cool Hardware designed by the Voron Design group
License: GNU General Public License v3.0
There does not appear to be a BOM for the microswitch endstop pcb.
I flashed the board to the latest firmware
v0.10.0-608-g638303b3
used the cfg code from this github. But my display stays black. Any ideas?
I have my XES wired directly to the switch NO leads ..
And I guess the Bat45 circuit effectively accomplishes the same with the probe (it becomes a NO switch to ground)
Not sure what's going on .. it seems like if you just bridge the gnd/signal leads on the octo pro .. it isn't enough to trigger that endstop .. I can't seem to get it to work .. I tried pull up, pull down, negation configs in klipper on that pin and its just not reacting to the switch.
Strangely, when I connect a multimeter between the pins (in beep mode) to see if the actual path is being bridged, the switch/probe start triggering as expected .. what am I missing?
Hi,
I have just installed Klipper Expander board to control 2x heavy duty PWM fans (using mosfet0 and mosfet1), which works fine.
I would like to use T0 & T1 (pins PA6 / PA5 respectively) for the fans' tachometer pin. I've added the following lines to the relevant fan configuration section in my printer.cfg -
tachometer_pin: expander:PA6
(for fan1) / tachometer_pin: expander:PA5
(for fan2)
tachometer_ppr: 2
With one of the fans I'm getting erroneous readings on the dashboard, such as ~700RPM when the fan is off, whereas with the second fan I'm not getting any readings at all.
However, when I connect one of the fan's tachometer pin to the GPIO of the Expander board (pin PA7) and configure it accordingly (tachometer_pin: expander:PA7
), the fan speed is reported correctly.
Unfortunately, there's only one GPIO, so I am able to get correct readings from only one of the fans.
Is it possible to remote the pullup resistors from the board, so that T0/T1 (MCU ping PA6 & PA5) will behave similarly to the PA7 GPIO? I don't intend to use these inputs for thermistors and therefore don't mind performing hardware changes (if possible at all).
Title says it all :)
Remove JLCJLCJLCJLC text from MicroswitchXY-Endstop.kicad_pcb file
(gr_text JLCJLCJLCJLC (at 167.6 68.4) (layer B.SilkS)
(effects (font (size 1 1) (thickness 0.15)) (justify mirror))
)
it looks like there is a typo in the klipper expander instalation guide under Setup it says to use
"CD ~/klipper"
to go to the klipper directory it returns
"-bash: CD: command not found"
in the voron documentation it says
"cd ~/klipper"
that one works. i am really bad with this stuff so i might be wrong.
The kill button doesn't work when using STM32_Mini12864 with Fysetc mini12864 RGB display.
V3.0 version of the board has holes for a 2x4 female header in the SPI section, but parts list calls for a 2x3 pin header like the V2.0 version requires.
Boards came out beautifully from OSH Park submitted straight from the files here though- thanks for the work!
I have issue with v0 display. It shuts down random in few hours. Klipper says that lost connection to mcu. Display keeps showing progress and time but encoder doesn't respond. It happens always after few hours of printer turned on. To fix display I can press reset button on it and restart klipper.
It seems that while rtd_reference_r: 430 might have been correct for SKR boards, the correct value seems to be closer to 400 for the Spyder and Octopus boards people are using today.
I set up my Voron 2.4 with a PT100 stick with a Spyder board and ended up troubleshooting extruder clicking with the documented settings. Only when I decided the issue was lower than reported extruder temp did I find out the rtd_reference_r config should be 400 instead of 430.
Hi!
Regarding voron v0 display mod.
Is there a possibility to add settings like so:
right (clockwise) scrolls up or increases values. Left (counter-clockwise) scrolls down or decreases values?
Thanks for the mod ^^
This part:
has minimal clearance with the BA motor mounts in the back. seems like the pcb should be moved up as far as allows for hole spacing to provide more clearance with mounts
You may like to update the following to reflect that this also works with a Trident build.
Both currently say it only works with V2
I might also be helpful to include the link to the SETUP page above within the ReadME.
Wondered if it was possible to use the I2C bus on the expander for a BME688.. This works connected to a Pi but transplanting it on to the expander fails.
Hi,
I just installed my klipper expander. Flashed with current klipper.
Issue:
Issuing a restart command via fluidd leads to the expander board being unreachable. I need to power cycle the board or press the physical reset button.
Expected behaviour: I expected the restart command to just restart the MCUs (board and expander)
Setup:
FYSETC Spider 2.2 on a Voron 2.4
Raspberry Pi 3b+ running Klipper v0.10.0-235-gf97fd7c6 and fluidd v.1.16.2
Klipper Expander with flashed with Klipper via the Pi.
The spider board is connected via GPIO Pins, The Expander via USB
Config:
`
[mcu expander]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f042x6_2A002E000843534133343520-if00
restart_method: command
#baud: 250000
#[output_pin mosfet0]
#pin: expander:PA0
#value: 0
#shutdown_value: 0
[temperature_sensor raspberry_pi]
sensor_type: temperature_host
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
[temperature_sensor MCU_Board_Expander]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
min_temp: 10
max_temp: 100
[heater_fan controller_fan-expander]
pin: expander:PA0
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: heater_bed
heater_temp: 45.0
max_power: 0.5
shutdown_speed: 0.0
kick_start_time: 5.0
fan_speed: 1.0
#[output_pin mosfet1]
#pin: expander:PA1
#value: 0
#shutdown_value: 0
[heater_fan exhaust_fan]
pin: expander:PA1
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: heater_bed
heater_temp: 60.0
max_power: 0.5
shutdown_speed: 0.0
kick_start_time: 5.0
fan_speed: 1.0
#max_power: 0.5
#off_below: 0.10
#[output_pin mosfet2]
#pin: expander:PA2
#value: 0
#shutdown_value: 0
#[output_pin mosfet3]
#pin: expander:PA3
#value: 0
#shutdown_value: 0
[static_digital_output onboardLED]
pins: !expander:PA4
[neopixel Pixel]
pin: expander:PB1
chain_count: 1
initial_RED: 0.9
initial_GREEN: 0.3
initial_BLUE: 0.0
#[display]
#lcd_type: sh1106
#i2c_bus: i2c1a
#[temperature_sensor t0]
#sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2
#sensor_pin: expander:PA5
#gcode_id=0
[temperature_sensor Gehaeuse]
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2
sensor_pin: expander:PA6
gcode_id=1`
This config is referenced in the printer.cfg
Is it normal not to be able to restart via command?
If it's possibile to wirte a small guide with the steps as flashing the nano ect...
When using a 24V power and a 5V fan, the current throught LDO may up to 100mA and the thermal power will up to about 2W. It will too hot that the LDO may cannot bear.
Ive fresh installed Klipper on a new printer and all is working. Configured a V0 display for it which is also working however when trying to use the SD Card menu option I get an unhandled exception. See log and screenshot.
[klippy-12.log](https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/files/7316089/klippy-12.log
)I am wondering how to reduce voltage for PCF, i am running a 12v noctua fan.
right now its 180 degrees off from what it should be.
Are all Klipper Expander files licensed under GPL3?
Hi,
I'm trying to connect a BME280 I2C sensor to the Klipper Expander board using the 4-pin I2C header.
On another board, I confirmed that the sensor works correctly and responds to address (0x77). I'm confident that I've wired it up correctly to the header. For testing, I added the following to my printer.cfg -
[temperature_sensor chamber]
sensor_type: BME280
i2c_address: 119
i2c_mcu: expander
i2c_bus: i2c1a
The result is that klipper shutdown immediately upon restart with the following error - MCU 'expander' shutdown: i2c_read not supported on stm32
Am I doing something wrong or is this not possible at all?
Hello i have the Problem that i get random Kill switch Problems with my Display and the STM32_Mini12864 board.
I did not Self source it. I bought it from Fysetc.
I did invert then the Kill Switch Button.
Aswell when i use the beeper it detects the kill_switch input and shuts down.
I have no R4 Resistor on my display for the kill switch, but an R3
Is there an Shematic as PDF of the Pins of the Labeling and Naming for the board?
[display]
lcd_type: uc1701
kill_pin: !menu:PF0 my setting: kill_pin: menu:PF0
spi_bus: spi1
cs_pin: menu:PA4
a0_pin: menu:PA2
rst_pin: menu:PA3
contrast: 63
encoder_pins: ^menu:PA0, ^menu:PA1
click_pin: ^!menu:PB1
Thanks in Advance
I don't know how people have been routing the neopixel wiring, but the only way I see to get from the rear electronics area to the top of the build chamber is through the Y end stop switch cutout. This is too small for anything more than one set of neopixel wires. I think this cutout should be enlarged or additional cutouts should be added for neopixel wiring. Probably a better solution would be to put the neopixel strip connectors on the top side of the board, which is what I will do. Am I missing something?
The SS39ET specified in the BOM senses magnetic fields perpendicular to the board. But when used in a hall endstop on VT/V2, the axially magnetized magnets point in directions parallel to the board, so they are unable to sense correctly.
So some users have had to mess with the magnet position to get the Y endstop to work, example image. I assume this works because it tilts the magnetic field to have a significant component perpendicular to the board.
I think it can be solved by using diametrically magnetized magnets, reverting to through-hole sensors, or moving the magnet position on the printer, but none of these are great solutions. After a quick look I haven't been able to find a SOT23 hall sensor that senses in a direction parallel to the board.
When I built my Trident, I cut my fan wires to the right length and put new JST connectors in the original fan's connector orientation.
Turns out, that puts the + and - wires reversed from the board markings
I actually assumed that gdstime had their wires reversed, but after looking at several different fans' JST connectors they are all the same.
Is it possible in future revs to reverse the connector silks, or at least document that the wires are the reverse of what the industry conventions seem to be?
Hello
Is it possible to note the maximum power for the hotend? depending on the width and thickness of the track (internal or external). example: for a 70W cartridge under 24 volts I need 2.9A -> 3A.
For an internal track I therefore need a width of 2.8mm with a thickness of 35um or 1.4mm with a thickness of 70um.
I know it also depends on the manufacturer of the PCB more than the design, but it seemed to me that was an important safety point.
Contains the line "USB ids --->[ ] Specify a custom step pulse duration"
It should be split into two lines
"USB ids --->"
"[ ] Specify a custom step pulse duration"
It tripped Nero up on his stream, so I imagine other people may be confused by that as well.
With the latest version of Klipper, the Bootloader offset
has been added.
The documentation for the v0 Display does not list what the setting should be, needs to be added as it only works one way.
Fix should have Bootloader offset (No bootloader)
as part of the config.
Dear VoronDesign
I have a quite specific setup whereas OctoPrint and Klipper run on a virtual machine that is always powered. The MCU, webcam and the V0 display are all connected to the server and are recieving power all the time. I have a plugin that shuts down a smart switch so the printer itself loses power.
However: the V0 display is still powered on. Is it possible to issue a command so that the display powers down and goes dark?
Hello. Before sending the PCB to fab and while waiting for the V2.4 manual to be published, I was wondering what is the current status of development of the Hall_Effect_XY_Endstop project. Is it sufficiently stabilized to be manufactured ? Or do you have some clues about future evolution worth waiting for ? Thanks for the info.
I get a parameter_S value not valid error after restarting klipper with the included klipper-mini12864.cfg
I think Klipper gcode parameter syntax changed recently.
Same error I had previously with the same syntax for the M300 macro when I had it in my printer.cfg and with my Mini112864 directly connected to the Z_MCU (Voron2); before installing the STM32_Mini12864 adapter.
In klipper-mini12864.cfg, instead of:
[gcode_macro M300]
default_parameter_S=1000
default_parameter_P=100
gcode: SET_PIN PIN=BEEPER_pin VALUE={S}
G4 P{P}
SET_PIN PIN=BEEPER_pin VALUE=0
The M300 gcode should read something like:
[gcode_macro M300]
gcode:
# Use a default 1kHz tone if S is omitted.
{% set S = params.S|default(1000)|int %}
# Use a 10ms duration is P is omitted.
{% set P = params.P|default(100)|int %}
SET_PIN PIN=beeper_pin VALUE={S} CYCLE_TIME={ 1.0/S if S > 0 else 1 }
G4 P{P}
SET_PIN PIN=beeper_pin VALUE=0
I can't claim credit for the gcode M300 code, I found it on the Voron discord when I was getting the error when I had my Mini112864 directly connected to the Z_MCU (Voron2). I seems to work with the revised gcode; at least I don't get a Klipper error for an invalid parameter S value.
Recently installed the toolhead and frame pcb into my V0 and found that the X-Stop had no continuity on the toolhead PCB.
What I discovered with a multimeter:
I'm under the assumption that the ground connections to either pin on the toolhead pcb are either not etched properly or may need additional clearance or a new path.
There appears to be no BOM to assemble this board.
impossible to list usb PI, expander does not appear!
Config with octopus card, works perfectly
Card tests on PI without klipper configuration, tests ok?
How to see expander in the list ?
thanks for your great work :)
i wonder if you could make a version of the Daylight PCB for 350mm voron models?
Best Regards
Sebstian
https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/blob/master/V0_Display/CAD/V0_Display_Assembly.step
Won't open in Fusion 360 (but other STEPs from this repo open fine). Gives error message as screenshotted below.
USB Type-C is the future, and it's actually easy to add it on USB 2.0 devices: other than the connector itself, you just need two 5.1kohms resistors to pull down the CC lines.
My suggestion is to use this connector, made specifically for USB 2.0 devices as it has a reduced number of pins, making it easier for hand soldering. Here's a KiCad library for it (and other connectors too), it does even have the STEP file for the connector.
(I don't know KiCad well enough to make the changes myself.)
Change from through hole SS49E to the sot-23-3 SS39ET
Afterburner_Toolhead_PCB/STLs/printed_washer.stl
I followed the instructions to flash to match the current Klipper version and got the following output:
Flashing out/klipper.bin to 0483:df11
sudo dfu-util -d ,0483:df11 -R -a 0 -s 0x8000000:leave -D out/klipper.bin
dfu-util 0.9
Copyright 2005-2009 Weston Schmidt, Harald Welte and OpenMoko Inc.
Copyright 2010-2016 Tormod Volden and Stefan Schmidt
This program is Free Software and has ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY
Please report bugs to http://sourceforge.net/p/dfu-util/tickets/
dfu-util: Invalid DFU suffix signature
dfu-util: A valid DFU suffix will be required in a future dfu-util release!!!
dfu-util: No DFU capable USB device available
Failed to flash to 0483:df11: Error running dfu-util
If the device is already in bootloader mode it can be flashed with the
following command:
make flash FLASH_DEVICE=0483:df11
OR
make flash FLASH_DEVICE=1209:beba
If attempting to flash via 3.3V serial, then use:
make serialflash FLASH_DEVICE=0483:df11
make: *** [src/stm32/Makefile:75: flash] Error 255
In the PCB BOM, the 2 connectors are listed and linked, but not the counterparts.
I guess its:
1x 1x2 plug - MOLEX 0436450200 or WM1845-ND
https://www.digikey.nl/en/products/detail/molex/0436450200/268974
1x 2x7 plug - MOLEX 0430251400 or WM2489-ND
https://www.digikey.nl/en/products/detail/molex/0430251408/3310169
18x crimp sockets - MOLEX 0430300007 or WM1837-ND
https://www.digikey.nl/en/products/detail/molex/0430300007/252479
@hartk1213 I believe tha rear housing .stl needs to be widen 5mm to the right in order to have room for the 10pin ribbon cable connector.
please let me know your thoughts.
tks in advance
keep on going.
excellent work
Looking at your schematic, you have pins 5 and 6 swapped on the LM. It'll work but the swap will cause it to go low all of the time, unless it detects a magnet. If you like I can send over the updated schematics.
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