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License: GNU General Public License v3.0
Voron 0 CoreXY 3D Printer design
License: GNU General Public License v3.0
Hello all
First of all I would like to say that I, a CAD designer, am very enthusiastic about this great printer. The parts, as well as the manuals and the community are of high quality and unparalleled.
That's why I want to use my skills as a quality manager and responsible for company standards in my company to make this great project even better. Starting with the manual!
When I assembled my V0, I felt a bit lost in certain parts of the manual.
General hint:
Page 6-7
Page 10-11
Page 15
Page 15-16
Page 20
Page 25
Page 27
Page 29
Page 30
Page 34
Page 35-36
Page 37
Page 74
Page 136-137
For questions I am also available in Discord
All in all, it was fun to assemble the Voron.
There is quite a lot of discussion on Discord right now, with people having problems with the wrong default setting in the repo. This has lead to many turning off Stealthchop entirely, meaning they will not benefit from near-silent - and skip free - steppers.
Klipper docs are fairly clear that Stealthchop should either be always on, or always off:
Enabling "Stealthchop" mode¶
By default, Klipper places the TMC drivers in "spreadcycle" mode. If the driver supports "stealthchop" then it can be enabled by adding stealthchop_threshold: 999999 to the TMC config section.
It is recommended to always use "spreadcycle" mode (by not specifying stealthchop_threshold) or to always use "stealthchop" mode (by setting stealthchop_threshold to 999999). Unfortunately, the drivers often produce poor and confusing results if the mode changes while the motor is at a non-zero velocity.
So I would suggest changing the default configuration for stepper_x
, stepper_y
and stepper_z
to:
stealthchop_threshold: 999999 # Comment out to turn off StealthChop
I doubt that using Stealthchop on the extruder motor is going to provide any benefit, and because it can reduce the motor torque at higher speed it may cause problems. I would suggest turning it off for the extruder.
1515 extrusion is not available worldwide. There is no equivalent of McMaster-Carr or Misumi outside the USA. It's extremely expensive to have shipped internationally too.
4040 extrusion is metric, easy to find pretty much anywhere, and less than 2mm larger.
Is it possible to scale the printed parts to account for this?
Also I hope if there is a 1.0 (or 2.0) version, this is taken into account and revised for the more standard size.
Please update the manual to state type of fans used.
For example in section where mini afterburner assembly is described (page 105), switch "Axial Fan" to "3007 Axial Fan".
I mean in the same way how bolts are described on every single page.
BTW this particular axial fan is of new type, 3010 from V0 can not be used here. As for now this is not stated anywhere aparat of the discord answer to my question :)
Hello,
while assembling my panels, i noticed that most panel holders dont sit flush when using regular VHB tape.
The VHB is ~1mm thick, so the Panel holders need a deeper recess.
Having gone through a couple rebuilds of my bed, I'd like to offer a few suggestions for refinement:
While the voron v0.1 is a great machine to tinker and build upon, there is a glaring safety issue of the exposed mains voltage compartment. The stock printer should include a solution where one can enclose the bottom with a 230mmx230mm acrylic sheet to keep fingers away whilst handling or moving the machine around.
For experienced users this may not be an issue but considering the popularity of this version many novice tinkerers will build this printer.
The Setup Guide mentions setting !PC13
on startup in the config. On my device with !PC13
the serial port does not appear in /dev
and no device is listed in lsusb
either.
I resolved the issue above by changing !PC13
to !PA14
. I suspect there was a hardware change in revision V2.0
?
I'm not familiar with Klipper/SKR, and I can't find a good schematic to validate... Does this sound reasonable?
Upstream reference:
https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper/issues/3461
The screw lengths in the pictures do not match the screws listed in the bottom right corner on p.104, p.106, and p.108.
I guess that the 6mm screws will be used for 2.5mm thick panels and the 8mm screws for the 3mm panels. Maybe that can be also mentioned somewhere in the manual. (The same goes for the ABS panel on p.33)
There is a wrong link on the BOM for the V0. If you are such an idiot like me and the list is not matched one to one with the link. One notices that a SHCS is needed, but a link for a BHCS is given ( https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000888328429.html?aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_d6yFG2z&aff_trace_key=a60eee5776474516bf270c003d9f5819-1608719124758-01673-_d6yFG2z&terminal_id=faa6ce545a8f47138c9c28b594715983&tmLog=new_Detail ). Now it is still such a snap measure of M2.5 that I do not have lying around. Now I have to turn the head of a BHCS. But I think that would have been preventable :<
Before putting in the bottom panel, please have the cable-chain stop installed. Doing it later makes it far more difficult to get it in (or to get it snug without stripping a screw-head).
In the current manual, the bottom cable-chain stop should be installed before/with page 36.
Assembly requires zip ties in various locations, but they're not included in the BOM.
... And since some of the parts require smaller zip-ties than people are likely to have (smaller than 4in/100mm, which are typically the smallest in normal zip-tie assortments), it is worth a call-out somewhere like the BOM/sourcing guide!
The wiring colors on page 135 are inconsistent-- A motor has red-black-blue-green, but should be black-green-red-blue (as is true of the other motors on that page). Two pages later, page 137 has the correct wire colors for the A motor.
About half the "3mm" set of panel clips have 5mm depth and fit my 3mm panel nicely, including room for VHB tape. The other half have 4mm depth and as a result have an awkward fit, requiring either loose tension of screws or some "flexing" of the clip to meet the rail.
The list of parts in the "3mm" set that have 4mm (perhaps incorrect?) depth is:
One way or the other, the fitment of the parts in this STL set seems to me inconsistent.
When wiring the V0.1, the suggest length of 400mm for the wire of the x-endstop seems a bit tight. Adding something like 20mm made it much more comfortable. Would be great to see a slightly longer length suggested!
Front_Rear_v0.1_x2.DXF is actually the side tophat panel and vice versa
On page 19, the bed carrier is fastened using two M3x8 BHCS bolts at the bottom, but there is no instruction to preload M3's.
Manual updated 2 hours ago won't open. Adobe reports the file is corrupt.
Tried downloading twice, deleting file in-between.
Install the m3x12 BHCS that engages the z-limit switch (page 59) on the leadscrew nut holder before installing onto the leadscrew (page 102).
Currently the tap/s are not labeled (found out the inconvenient way). One end of this tap holds a motor mount screw, the other end holds a screw for the foot.
Hi team,
I crossed this discrepancy by accident while searching for configuration info in Voron Documentation under Voron V0.0 - SKR mini E3 V2.0 Wiring: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/v0_miniE3_v20_wiring.html#voron-v00---skr-mini-e3-v20-wiring
Bulit 4; Plug Hot End Fan in to FAN0 (pin PC6), is FAN1 (pin PC7) in the example Github printer.cfg: fa6f00e
Both pins have 24V output.
However, in the Voron sourcing guide, a 3007 axial fan 5V (min 3.5CFM) is specked: https://vorondesign.com/sourcing_guide
Connecting the fan straight to FAN0 or FAN1 will fry your hot end fan. With a lack of +5V outputs, my positive is wired to the probe +5V pin and FAN1 ground. Not sure where that wisdom came from, but I didn't make it up by myself.
Hope this helps making future building experiences even more awesome!
Hello, sorry if this is not the right place to request FR like this.
The chamfer on the top hat parts is 36.78° that make the parts very hard to print nicely with FDM printer. At first, I was thinking problem is my bad cooling, but other members on Voron discord also have the same problem, some suggest to print the parts with PLA+. If the chamfer angle is 45° or higher, the parts will can be printed with most of filament type.
If somebody is following the main assembly manual, (which is the only manual you get sent to from the website), the Pocketwatch extruder suddenly springs from nowhere, fully assembled on page 67. I think it would avoid some confusion to link the Pocketwatch manual from the website, or from a caption in the manual (or both)
"[a]_Z_Endstop_Mount_x1.stl" should be rotated such that the voron logo in on the build surface
These can be found at most hardware stores but it should be listed on BOM since you can't get going safely without one.
There is a problem in downloading the following .stl´s:
Can´t download them because after a click on the download button, it opens the file as a txt-file.
PSU_cover_x1.stl doesn´t even offer a download button
On page 16 in the manual you're told to install the rail stoppers, but there's no mention of nuts being shown before page 18. Makes more sense to mention it the first place you use them. Props to setyte#5616 @ discord
Thin walls around the screw holes on the part: "[a]_Toolhead_Blower_Duct_Left_TV6_x1" leads to gaps on the inside during slicing and printing. Attempted to alleviate the issue by enabling "Print Thin Walls" within Cura, to no avail.
Printed using recommended settings, please see attached for reference.
B motor should be connected to XM and A motor to YM but documentation on page 135 & 137 states otherwise.
BOM calls for "Bondtech Motor Gear" but it is unnecessary because the spec'd stepper already has a gear
On page 79-81 it's not clear if the X-carriage should be attached to the rail before or after tightening the belts. If it's attached when pulling on the belts, it puts a fair amount of tension on the Z printing axis of the part, which can cause it to split.
See this discord thread for more details.
The size of the gear isn't specified in the sourcing guide. It comes in a bigger and smaller version.
Confusing for newbies.
--source: am a newbie to DIY extruders.
Please specify size of BMG gearing for self sourcing.
I found that building most of the frame, then dropping in the z-axis "h" section made life far easier.
Building the assembly that is present on page 33 separately, and then putting together the rest of the v0 frame was far, far faster.
This would involve building the outer 10 extrusions first-- the bottom square (4 extrusions), the top y-axis square (4 extrusions), and the verticals between them.
Once those are built, you can simply slide in the 'H' assembly as appears on page 33 from the back.
As mentioned in the title... Should be cheap, and gives more warm-fuzzies for folks!
The extrusion width percentages in the PrusaSlicer profile seem to be based on Nozzle diameter, like SuperSlicer does.
PrusaSlicer calculates them on Layer height.
The BOM specified GDSTime 24v 30mm blower fans used for the Part cooling fans are susceptible to overheating from being in close proximity to the hotend.
Observed behaviour;
Potential fixes;
Also asking for potential workarounds and/or solutions.
Sourcing guide says:
Cable | Quantity |
---|---|
PTFE Wire 22gauge 100ft (get 5m of 6 colors for 30m total, tin plated) | 1 |
Silicon Wire 18gauge 10ft (individual strand length total [example: 25ft of 4p wire=100ft]) | 1 |
BOM says:
Cable | Quantity |
---|---|
Silicon Wire 24gauge 100ft | 1 |
(also, "Silicon wire" should be "Silicone wire")
The screws in the CAD are modeled as M2.5 x 12mm, but the stock Dragon Hotend (at least from Phaetus) comes with M2.5x8mm. The V0 BOM doesn't call for M2.5x12mm screws, and the Toolhead holes for mounting the hotend have 9mm of through depth :(
I think the magnet sheet should have its own line in the BOM separate to the "Spring Steel Flex Buildplate 120x120mm (OPTIONAL)", especially given that the sourcing guide recommends buying a better quality sheet than the ones that can be bundled with the spring steel plate:
"base" refers to the magnet which is not very good, better to buy a stronger 3rd party one
This is by no means critical, but it is amusing!
The first mention of "v0" is on page 86, and the first mention of "v0.1" is on page 132.
Would be nice to have this on an earlier page for those of us who mess up the naming of the downloaded file!
From the V0.1 sourcing guide:
print panel clips that match your panel thickness, if you are in between print the smaller size
V0.0 had different sizes, (2.0, 2.5, 3.0):
https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/tree/Voron0.0/VORON-0/STLs/V0_TopHat/TopHat_Panel_Mounting
V0.1 does not:
https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-0/tree/Voron0.1/STLs/Tophat
Rear_Bed_Mount_Left_x1.stl and Rear_Bed_Mount_Right_x1.stl files in Wiki opening as plain text files from Download button
compare with the multibody for dragon, i found there's a mistake with this [a]_Cowling_Mosquito_MULTIBODY_x1. There is not enough space to add the 3007 fan . but there is a concave place on the top of the Dragon_Toolhead_DD or Dragonfly_BMO_Toolhead_DD stl, just fit for 3007 fan.
With the BOM/Sourcing-guide specified LDO 36STH17-1004AHG stepper for the extruder (E-motor), the wiring color should be green-red-blue-yellow (this should be tested, but at least this makes the motor move, instead of just buzzing).
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PC11
tx_pin: PC10
uart_address: 1
interpolate: True
run_current: 0.37 # For V0.1 spec NEMA17 w/ integrated lead screw
hold_current: 0.35
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 500
The run_current: 037
is fine for the LDO-42STH25-1004CL200E 1.0A, but is over the 0.28A max for the OMC 17LS13-0404E-200G 0.4A
Perhaps having two different configs in [tmc2209 stepper_z]
, with the OMC being commented out by default, but adding additional commenting to inform the user.
I've added an example below as well as included all of the current BOM motors and their currents in case that information was helpful or if you wanted to incorporate them as comments into the config.
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: PC11
tx_pin: PC10
uart_address: 1
interpolate: True
#run_current: 0.37 # For V0.1 spec NEMA17 LDO-42STH25-1004CL200E 1.0A
#hold_current: 0.35
run_current: 0.2 # For V0.1 spec NEMA17 OMC 17LS13-0404E-200G 0.4A
hold_current: 0.15
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 500
[tmc2209 stepper_x], [tmc2209 stepper_y]
OMC 14HS20-1504S 1.5A
LDO N/A
[tmc2209 stepper_z]
OMC 17LS13-0404E-200G 0.4A
LDO-42STH25-1004CL200E 1.0A
[tmc2209 extruder]
OMC 14HR07-1004VRN 1.0A
LDO-36STH17-1004AH 1.0A
Quite keen to try the new direct drive hotend design, but I need to make some modifications. Doing those on STL can be a pain in the ass. Any chance of releasing the CAD?
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