Trying to source HPI Blitz / Firestorm Titanium Idler Gear Shaft 5x16m #104138( HPI part number #104138) shows that this part is discontinued and is hard to get by...
After some digging around i came to part witch is the same dimension(5x16mm) but it is not from titan. #86947 - IDLER GEAR SHAFT 5x16mm https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86947 if we search for hpi 86947 on ebay/google we get much more hits.. I think it is equal replacement...

What

Some printed parts require M6x14, some require M6x12 screws. It's not defined anywhere which parts require which screws.

Proposed Solution

Either one of these two solutions would suffice:

1. The BOM and Assembly Instructions should carefully note the different lengths required for each part.

OR

2. The STL files should be updated to be slightly "beefier" so that we can standardize on the M6x14 screws, and eliminate the need to purchase M6x12.

Known Parts Which Require M6x12

• 1x_rambo_mount.stl REQUIRES 2
• 1x_y_motor_mount

First question/comment is regarding the Misumi shaft. The part number you specify of PSFG8 is a 8mm Outside Diameter (OD) 1045 carbon steel hard chrome plated shaft with a diametrical tolerance of "f8" which means the diameter will nominally be -0.013mm to -0.035mm less than 8mm. It might be worth noting for the folks using the Misumi LMU8 bearings that the Inside Diameter (ID) tolerance on the bearing is 0mm to -0.009mm and the Misumi technical documentation states that they recommend a shaft with a "g6" tolerance of -0.005mm to -0.014mm (https://us.misumi-ec.com/pdf/fa/2012/p1_0265.pdf). I suspect the shaft you selected is appropriate for the IGUS DRYLIN bushings you call out in your BOM but it seems like folks using LMU8 bearings should consider using the equivalent "g6" tolerance shaft part number PSFJ8 (52100 bearing steel shaft that is induction hardened and is also hard chrome plated). Does that make sense? I'm definitely not an expert so please set me straight if I'm missing something.

The second question/comment is regarding the bearings. The baseline Prusa i3 mk2 design essentially uses back-to-back bearings on the X and Z axis (2 on X as part of the extruder assembly and 2 on each Z carriage). Is there any reason not to go with double bearings (LMUW8) in these three locations instead of sticking with the back-to-back configuration? Perhaps you didn't do this because the IGUS DRYLIN bushings don't have a double length option? We're 3D printing upgraded parts anyway so it seems like a true double bearing would be a better option for these locations. Again, I'm no expert so please educate me if I'm missing something.

Thanks and awesome work on this stuff!

The current spacing between blocks on the T and L braces only allows space for the 14mm Tnuts purchased from Misumi.

As these are unavailable to many people outside the states and the 14mm size seems to be unique to Misumi it has been suggested a wider spacing of 16mm be used as this would let people use the commonly available 15.8mm Tnuts.

I knocked up STL files to print myself if you want them, they are linked below.

Thanks.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ams92czv7z1n96p/16mm%20L%20Brace.stl?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fff85nx6iuj757r/16mm%20T%20Brace.stl?dl=0

The "HARIBO" LCD Cover has several known issues:

• "X" button does not properly depress. There is a block preventing the button from moving.
• If you measure the recess on the sd-card side, you’ll probably find it’s 14.5mm. The one on the other side is 12.5, as is the one on the original prusa LCD cover.
• The opening of the LCD cover is larger than it needs to be. Bottom of opening aligns correctly with LCD, but the top extends too far.

An common problem for the Mk2 design is getting the distance correct for attaching the vertical and horizontal sections. Can I suggest adding a 3D printed spacer to the design to take the guess work out? The spacer would fit in the groove behind the vertical section.

Thanks

@ar-o-be Aluminum CSV file part names show the BLACK names. The actual part numbers look correct.

The opening of the LCD cover is larger than it needs to be. Bottom of opening aligns correctly with LCD, but the top extends too far. Will add exact dimensions asap.

I'd really like to mod my MK2 with these excellent 3030 Haribo extrusions, however I can't seem to be able to join the CodeHemi.com slack channel - the host appears to have been down for a few days. I've tried several times with no luck. Is there another way to access it?

Make some changes to the Meanwell LRS-350-12 cover to allow the cable holes to be larger.

As noted by @JohnOCFII in the #16.

I'd request the hole for the cables be made larger (or Joseph suggested additional holes) to hold larger diameter cables and/or additional cables. I'd suggest making the opening twice as tall and twice as wide (or two holes with similar total opening space).

I'd like to know how many M6 nuts are required, they are not on the BOM. I see that there are 12+54+4 M6 bolts, so do I need 70 nuts?

Why there are no source files for parts?

This is not how open-source works...

Kinda sux, when you need to modify stuff.

Here, maybe this will make it a little clearer: If I have a link to a public Tinkercad project, I can click 'copy and tinker', and I get all the original individual objects used to create the model, grouped or ungrouped, and can easily edit them. https://metacollin.com/screens/upshot_ysrrJqiv.png

On the other hand, I lose all of this information and cannot easily make any changes if I instead simply import a raw .stl file into Tinkercad: https://metacollin.com/screens/upshot_kEdUsQXH.png

I wish to fix an issue with the poly count of the L and T brackets, as well as make other improvements without having to manually recreate the model (which in some cases isn't even possible to do), by hand.

There is no issue preventing you from doing this. Refusing to is both against the spirit of open source, and in violation of the GPL which this project is subject to. Please include links to the original tinkercad projects, which have been made public (goto settings -> change private to public). This allows people to 'copy and tinker' within tinkercad. Whether or not there exist actual cad files is irrelevant to the compliance of the GPL and there is nothing preventing you from doing this. Tinkercad has the ability to share projects between users, so please share the Haribo 3030 projects.

those values are already the default in the current version of the firmware. (.11)

Providing a bunch of .STL files is analogous to providing binaries alone. Where are the .scad files that were used to generate the STL files? Or, if OpenSCAD wasn't used, where are the original design files in whatever CAD program that was originally used?

You license this under the GPL, but in every way that matters, this project is closed source. It is definitely arguable that this repo is in violation of the GPL, as the files needed to generate the .STL files are not available, but you've clearly used some of the prusa .scad file code in parts to create new .STL file variations for this mod.

Case in point: there is an error in the L and T brackets. In the T bracket, two of the holes have a very low poly count set (which would only be an issue for something created in OpenSCAD...so where is the .scad source code?), while all of the holes are like this in the L bracket.

Since this project is not open source, I cannot easily fix what should be a trivial change. I would change one '$fn =' statement and be done. But I can't, because you haven't included the source. I also can't do a pull request of said change and contribute to the repository.

My only option would be to recreate the .scad source independently which will not necessarily be the same code at all, and only produce something functionally equivalent.

This is how you can tell if something isn't open source, if people have to literally do the exact same thing as the reason behind linux even existing (it was to make a functional clone of unix, back when unix was closed source), then it isn't open source.

I request the inclusion of the CAD source files, or links to non-private tinkercad projects (or whatever else cloud-based service that might have been used), for every .STL included in this repo that is in some way derived from the original Prusa design. At the very least to be in the spirit of the GPL, if not in actual compliance with it.

I know the people maintaining this repo may not have these files themselves. It it still your responsibility to contact the people that do, and acquire them for the inclusion in this repository.

Hi,
I am planning to build a Haribo Mod from scratch without the original prusa. So I have to buy all electrical parts too. But at the moment I don't know if I will use also the Rambo 1.3 Board from Prusa Mk2/MK3 or the MKS 1.4 or Ramps 1.4+Arduino. So I want to use an other board it would be better to take the original firmware and not the haribo firmware, am I right? Whats the difference between the Haribo firmware and the standard? Or would it be better to take the haribo firmware and to change the Board in the files?

Any ideas?

It seems like this repo only has the STL files.
Where are the source files?
What am I missing?

The BOM lists "HFS6-3030-200-Z8-XA15" as the Misumi part number of the extruder springs - but that's incorrect. The listed part number is for one of the spool holder extrusions.

The BOM indicates a requirement for 2x "GT2 16T pulley" - and provides a link to purchase them from RepRap Champion. However the link sends you to a page for a 16T GT2 Idler with ball-bearings having a 3mm bore.

I believe the correct link should be:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/mechanical-components/products/high-quality-gt2-16t-aluminum-timing-belt-pulley-reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3

I have been having some problems with printing the X motor mount and everything I tried resulted in the part breaking.

On looking at the file in mesh mixer I found that there appears to be an error in the model that appears in exactly the same location as the part failures.

Please can someone tell me how to fix this or fix the model for me.

Thanks

Richard

We need explicit step-by-step instructions for assembly from scratch (using an upgrade kit from Prusa) AND assembly using an existing MK2 as a donor.