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Once the release build is created in firmware, update all links to nightly-rp2040 to release.

Inner for connecting halves, outer for connecting to a tidbit.

Basically this https://electropeak.com/learn/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/OLED-0.91INCH-pin.jpg

Add testing page + clarify that VIA + test matrix is the best way to go.

Current cap image is orange and has confused a few people. Change to blue. https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/620847073092435993/862803090628542464/image0.jpg

The build guide for the Nibble 65 doesn't provide instructions on how and where to solder the TRRS jack. There is no other information (such as limitations, warnings and disclaimers) regarding the use of the TRRS jack either and how to use it with the Tidbit macro/num pad.

From Discord: "also include in the step with the male header being in between the pcb and the bit-c. and i think adding in optional step of moving the oled screen since quite a few people ask for more info about it"

3 vs 5 pin switches

Copy from Discord

See below for more feedback:

"The grammar should be changed and made more precise. Instead of writing "...screw the M2x3 standoffs into the TOP PCB plate", write "...screw the M2x3 standoffs into the bottom side of the top PCB plate".

In addition, circling the diagram with red circles is ambiguous. It is unclear if the circles are used to denote the standoff or the screw. A caption on the diagram with "Place the standoffs on the red circles" would have clarified this.

There are various points in the guide where additional pictures are useful. Often, the pictures that are included are ambiguous or not helpful for that particular step. Additional annotations on the figures would be helpful.

The ordering of the material in the guide is confusing, at times, partly because the guide was not meant to orient towards e.g. plate installs vs. socket install vs other things.
In many cases, a CAD-like diagram would have simplified life enormously as well, rather than digitised pictures.

Even a hand-drawn image of the side view, showing the general layering (bottom plate, acrylic plate, screw, , standoff, midplate, top plate, etc.) is often more helpful than a page of text. "

https://www.printables.com/model/61547-nullbits-tidbit-10-key-tray

Better to ask questions than to make a mistake!

Add to both build guides - copy info from Helperbot.

The build guide incorrectly states that the keycaps sizes required for the Nibble are 2.75U + 1U +2.25U

Change it to the correct sizes of 2.75U + 1.25U + 2.25U

https://github.com/nullbitsco/firmware

Change directions on Rotary Encoder clipping to be clear that you do not need to solder the supports on the sides of the component. Issue present on nibble 65 and tidbit (to my knowledge).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xdAuwUQWaI4

My last 2 rows (3 & 4) are all being pressed in pairs with each other. Rows 1 & 2 work perfectly fine.

The entirety of the last 2 columns looks like this.

I tried updating firmware, restating my PC, and everything I could think of on the software side. I used this repo for setting up everything.

My soldering connections look like this:

Nuff wanks

For reference, on the Nibble, the OLED holes are GND, VCC, SCK, SDA from left to right.

It's very easy to read step 8 incorrectly and put screws in the bottom of the main board.

A caption on the picture or a change of phrasing or a pic of the top as well as the bottom?

Some way to make it clear which way things go. If it is done incorrectly you have to desolder every switch to fix.

Is it possible to mount the switches so they are hot-swappable?

https://discord.com/channels/735314509949829151/735314510394687620/926703974864789544

Include an explainer of all parts on the board

There is no reset/prog button on the Bit-C PRO. To enter firmware update mode, short the PROG pin to GND during startup.

1. Using the Bit-C PRO with pico-sdk

• Follow the normal blink tutorial (https://www.raspberrypi.com/news/how-to-blink-an-led-with-raspberry-pi-pico-in-c/)
• cmake -D"PICO_BOARD=nullbits_bit_c_pro" ..; make

Use BIT_C_PRO_LED_R_PIN, BIT_C_PRO_LED_G_PIN, BIT_C_PRO_LED_B_PIN to access the RGB LED channels

1. Using the Bit-C PRO with Arduino Core

• [installation steps]
• walk through an example

1. Using the Bit-C PRO with micropython

• Load firmware (link)
• follow example in readme to toggle LED
• use thonny (link to SF tutorial) -- it rocks!

1. Using the Bit-C PRO with circuitpython

• Load firmware (link)
• follow example in gist to toggle LED
• use mu (link to Adafruit tutorial) -- it rocks!

• Include a “small file” in the optional tools part. It was helpful for me since my solders weren’t the cleanest and allowed me to still use the acrylic middle-plate after some filing to open up the holes so they solders fit properly through them.
• Include that people will need headers if using a bit-C, I didn’t know at first and had to order some.
• Suggest bending the diodes legs (idk if they’re called legs, but the extra wire on them) inwards so the extra wire after snipping is facing inwards instead of outwards (makes fitting the acrylic plate easier)

It's not needed

Add information on what to look for on completion and bootloader issues (driver installation etc)

Caught by CI link checker