clough42 / 3d-printing Goto Github PK

The 1.75 universal comes with a very small bowden tube adapter installed that needs a small recess around the 3 mm hole. included are pictures to show this.

It is roughly 2mm deep,and about 2-3mm larger in diameter than the filament hole.

image direct from e3d site same as used on 1.75 universal
http://e3d-online.com/image/cache/data/kraken/E3D_Kraken09thumb-1000x1000.jpg

pics i've taken for reference

side view of adapter protrusion
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_075045.jpg

reference pic for area of needed change
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_075056.jpg

Provide Slic3r settings for double extruders.

The 1mm spacers that go under the hobbed bolt head don't fit down snugly against the head because there's a slight radius on the bolt. They need a relief so they don't hold the head out more than 1mm.

Double flex needs 1mm more clearance behind pulleys.

Hexagon cooling shroud cracks easily at the extruder mounting screws.

Suggest trimming the shroud back so it isn't captured under the 4mm screws. Either that or reorient the layers. The shroud will probably still crack. It's very thin and the extruder will flex a bit because of its weight.

I had to shave it down to about .4mm(2 layers left) to be able to fit the E3D into the groove mount plate.

I shaved it down as little as possible and it still be very tight, I wasnt able to push it all the way into the mount initially.

sorry for the unscientific measurements but my kid found and lost my calipers

Pic for reference
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_201640.jpg

From thingiverse comment.

So as i've built tuned and used this I ran across a problem that couldnt be fixed without printing adamfilip's tilt plate due to my Z screws not allowing enough tilt to get the hotends level. I could get within about .1-.2 mm before the right side of the x carriage would start lifting off the Z nut, and no amount of adjusting would get it to tilt more.

The only real solutions i can think of are either nut traps that can then force the z axis to crash through the bed, or to provide a tilt plate of some sort. maybe just referencing adamfillips tilt plate would be sufficient when this is released should it be needed.

I'm not sure the rear pulley will clear the wheel hardware on the back plate. I don't want to pull it any further forward than I absolutely have to.

Need to lower the registration pins on the support brackets by about .25mm to close up gap between the support brackets and the shelf.

the stock fan screws hit the X table preventing a proper fit

pic of the interference point
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_212610.jpg

and dryfit is now done

here's a few pics of it together with just 1 extruder
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_212826.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_212846.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d130/tourach23/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-03/20150309_212500.jpg

The instructions need to indicate that the left bracket should be left off until the extruder is mounted.

Need better support structures for 1.75mm filament to prevent the filament from climbing out of the hobbed bolt groove and getting jammed in the mechanism.

Need to figure out appropriate Slic3r config to effectively use this dual extruder setup.

The double flex shelf needs the outside pins spread about .3mm each (total .6mm) to make the shelf fit easily into the back plate. The center pins could be narrowed from the outside by about .15mm as well, but it isn't clear if this is really necessary.

The idler arms can fold down far enough that they start to cut against the lower support webbing of the pivots. They need minor reshaping.

Need to get new version of Marlin and get it configured for this setup:

1. RAMPS 1.4
2. Double extruder
3. Software controlled fan (fan extender)
4. Servo-actuated Z end stop
5. Auto bed leveling

There is a 3dprintboard forum where some folks were merging Roxy's ABL implementation into Marlin in a GitHub fork somewhere. Need to ascertain the status of this and decide if it's what we want.

I keep having prints fail horribly. I always start a print and then regularly come back and check on it to make sure it is printing properly. Every time the print has failed(that i can recall) the print cooling shroud has been flipped up as if it has snagged on a part and dragged.

I'm going to double check the tightness of the fan duct, to make sure that the duct isn't drooping. and i'll report back.

As an aside, have you considered adding an M3 nut trap to the part cooling fan to make it easier to tighten the screw when necessary?

I'm not sure if the 25mm fan will provide enough air flow to cool two hexagons. I think if the air flow is constrained around the heat sinks better, it might. It might also be possible to wedge two fans in--maybe at angles leaning against each other behind the extruder. If two fans can fit, maybe the 25mm fans that come with the Hexagon now might be enough.

The double flex is cleanest with the blocks oriented to the left, so all of the wires go out the back. But this puts the block (with the isolator) almost in contact with the servo arm. A 2mm spacer under the servo would space it out far enough to leave 2.1mm space to the hot block and still .6mm space from the inside wall of the support bracket.

The lower radii of the shroud contact and pinch the hot ends.

I think there's a way to rotate the Hexagon heat blocks so they can use the rubber isolators and still have all of the wiring route out cleanly without interfering with the Z probe or the fan shroud. This might need some attention.

Maybe mount the blocks parallel, with the isolators in contact, and cut new holes for heater block and thermistor on one of the hot ends.