aapalo / 3d-printing Goto Github PK

My notes, tips, and setup for 3d printing

• Printer: Artillery Genius
• Current mods/software in use
  • Hardware
  • Printed mods
  • Software
• Leveling process
• Replacement parts
• Printing with PETG
• Misc tips
• Useful links
• Calibration flowchart
• Filament flowchart

Table of contents generated with markdown-toc

• build size 220*220*250 mm
• direct drive
• bed max temperature 130C
• hot end
  • 24V, kraken heatbreak, e3d volcano nozzle & block, nt100 thermistor

• Raspberry Pi 3 Model B Rev 1.2
• 3DTouch leveling sensor
• mellow/trianglelab nozzle
• full-metal heatbreak
• Bigtreetech TMC2209 v1.2 stepper drivers, in uart mode
  • A guide for uart mode by @Dan;#1256
• Energetic flexible spring steel & PEI sheet
• ADXL345 accelerometer, (https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html)
• At some point, maybe:
  • Improvements for Z-banding: miagi, cobra
  • Aluminium bed

• fan shroud, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3972011)
  • mount and calibration disk, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716043)
• cable protector, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4295171)
• cable ribbon clamp, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281143)
• filament dust filter, (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:190118)
• side bed cable mod, (https://www.printables.com/model/54320-artillery-sidewinder-x1-genius-illuminated-bed-cab)
• old ones:
  • bed cable strain relief, (https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/55642-genius-zx-adjustable-bed-cable-strain-relief)

• Klipper
  • pressure advance, input shaping, auto bed leveling
  • Clank's config used as the base
  • both Mainsail and Fluidd installed
• SuperSlicer

• heat up the bed and wait for a few minutes
• PROBE_CALIBRATE
• take A5 sized copy paper
• close the gap between the nozzle: TESTZ Z=-.1 with smaller and smaller increments
• leveling is done when you can still move the paper by pulling, but it curls up when pushed
• ACCEPT and SAVE_CONFIG to save the values
• links:
  • (https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html#calibrating-probe-z-offset)
  • (https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Level.html#the-paper-test)

• nozzle: volcano
  • aliexpress: trianglelabs or mellow
• heat block: volcano
• heatbreak
  • if the cooler plate has two holes: smooth heatbreak, "kraken" style

• spread gluestick to bed, dilute with water if needed
• increase the gap between nozzle and bed a bit
• bed temperature: first layer 80C, others 70C (ie 10C warmer than with PLA)
• nozzle temperature >230C
• decrease part cooling

• Tape out the 5V line from Pi to mainboard
• Detach the 2-wired reset connector between TFT and mainboard: when flashing (Marlin) firmware, keep the reset button pressed to keep the TFT off
• After changing nozzle/hotend
  • Heat up to 230C, loosen nozzle, tighten heat block, tighten nozzle
  • PROBE_CALIBRATE, TESTZ Z=-1 etc, ACCEPT, SAVE_CONFIG
  • PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200, if needed, with fan on
  • heat up the bed and G29

• Setting up your new Artillery 3D printer
• Teaching Tech 3D Printer Calibration

Flowchart was done using Mermaid.

My procedure for tuning new filament