Comments (23)
Hi @Animalrsa1,
It is not possible.
A tachometer gives you information about motor speed but not direction.
A position control needs to know the direction of each motion to be able to accurately track motor shaft position. Without that, it won't work.
You could use that for a speed control though.
from dcservo.
Hi
many thanks for the swift response, if possible could you assist with a cost effective solution to a quadrature encoder. i want to use wiper motors to move my mill.
thanks again
tony
from dcservo.
You can get a relatively inexpensive one online: https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Encoder-600P-R-Incremental-Rotary-Encoder-AB-phase-encoder-5V-24V-Two-Phases-Shaft/3105031_32851443854.html
from dcservo.
Hello, lemme say, i tried that, bo matter what you do the motors are slow and will overheat fast, if ur pid is too low they wont move properly, if u go higher so ur motor spins up right, it will overheat . U coud drill holes in the motor and cool it by forcing air trough, but u coud try either try servo motor from say a opel corsa steering or bmw x5 compressor motor, etc. I just got some oldschool dc motors wich have 4 huge brushes and rotor, they have about 500 watt, got them at the junkyard. And i used ibt_2 h bridges. Hope this helps.
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Cheap encoder link, u have to make the disc, i made it with a 3d printer
from dcservo.
And mirror on the other side, and disc must b thin
from dcservo.
If I'm reading the datasheet right on the AEDR-8300, the code wheel will need to be 8.35 lines/mm (212 LPI), which seems like it would be somewhat difficult to print.
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You could go with as many lines as u can, like i did to test and get used to the whole thing until u scavange the real deal :) here s another link to a encoder
from dcservo.
from dcservo.
U got to open it, inside u will find 2 empty pads ready 2 solder components, solder 2 4k7 resistors on the pads before giving it a go.
from dcservo.
With 3d printed encoder disk i managed to get a precision of 0.1, wich isnt that bad taking into account the disk precision
from dcservo.
Or go to the scrap yard and get encoder strips from old plotters
from dcservo.
I believe I have the same issue. I stumbled upon this project in the hopes that the controller could be used to build a controller system for a Pegasus robotic arm. The vendor that made the arm (it's a "educational robot") isn't much help as they won't share any specifics about the computer control setup (which I'm lacking here). I picked up a nvcmv2.1 and was able to drive the motor on the x axis forward and backwards. The problem is the encoders on these motors are a very fine incremental/step encoder rather than a absolute. The motors themselves have easy access to the encoders. It's just a set screw that holds the disc on. And two screws that hold down the encoder. Is there a encoder I could retrofit onto the backend of the motor to convert it over to a quadrature encoder? I saw a link above for one, but that's really a sealed unit that couples to the shaft. I was hoping for a simple disc and new sensor to convert it. I can get more measurements of the disc diameter and the mounting holes of the sensor. The shaft is only about a 1/8" diameter or a little more.
Edit: would one of these work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223514147915
I think I could likely drill out the disc to fit the shaft. And 3d print a holder for the sensor setup.
from dcservo.
@patracy: an incremental encoder usually provides a quadrature output, that can be used to obtain an absolute position if you pair that with a way to detect a reference [home] position when booting up. The encoder you linked is a low-resolution unit (only 12 pulses per revolution), it is an incremental encoder, and it provides a quadrature output too.
Alternatively you can use Magnetic encoders to obtain an absolute position (angle), like the AMS5600: https://ams.com/as5600
from dcservo.
I have tried the dcservouno sketch. But it acts very strangely. The motors I have have a HEDS-9000 encoder on them. They have a 500cpr on them. When I power up the arduino I get nothing out of the serial port. But when I disconnect the encoder A/B leads, it will then provide the menu. I can then reattach the AB leads and I am able to home it. Set to T mode and it will randomly move as expected. I was having jitter at home when I first started it but I put P down to 1 and it seems to be behaving now. Is this encoder setup going to be too much for the mini as far as counting goes? I know it's going to be excessive since it's a gearmotor setup on the number of counts.
https://docs.broadcom.com/doc/AV02-1867EN
from dcservo.
I think maybe the encoder setup is just simply too much for this. It's 500cpr on the motor shaft side of things, feeding a gearbox. I bought this cheapo DC motor/encoder just to try it out and it behaves just fine it would seem. I'm going to try a hall effect encoder like it has on the style motor I have and see if that would help.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0833X3KY3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
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from dcservo.
The time to get encoders vs the cost I picked up some AS5600 encoders. I'm using a nano. I tried flashing the magnetic encoder firmware, but I get a bad checksum error when I connect to it over the serial port. (I think it was the mega version, I do recall it warning about stability when I flashed it due to low space) I tried to compile the pro micro mag encoder under the nano, but it gives me PINF related errors. So I simply set it to micro. I've ordered some pro micros that should be in tomorrow. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08THVMQ46 ) I'm going to give that a try with the magnetic encoder setup. Otherwise I'll order some more hall effect encoders and wait for those. Since I know that works.
from dcservo.
The checksum error is about the EEPROM storage not being initialized. Once you use "W" command this should go away.
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It's unresponsive when I try to type anything. The L led goes solid.
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